As I have no perceived accent, Canadians are always surprised to hear I am a Kiwi, having been New Zealand born, and now a dual citizen of both New Zealand and Canada. Our treks home largely center around Hawkes Bay, a region on the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island with its major cities being Hastings, Havelock North and Napier. As a child there was so much to discover, from the beaches to the gannet colonies and farmers markets, and returning as an adult, the same attractions called along with the many wineries, shopping areas and stellar dining establishments.
I have been fortunate to check out a variety of accommodations in Hawkes Bay; the most memorable being Millar Road, set on a stunning vineyard property, and The Farm at Cape Kidnappers Lodge. Millar Road is a stylish property consisting of two villas and a central house, designed to look like NZ cottages (referred to as baches) of the 1950’s, but with all the modern amenities. They are self-catering with full kitchens and barbeques, and you are provided with an artisan selection of goodies on arrival enough for light dinner and breakfast and then are free to shop the local markets or dine out in the area’s many establishments.
At Cape Kidnappers Lodge, full service awaits at this 5-star Relais and Chateau property consisting of a main lodge and outlying cottages. Onsite there is world-class golf, farm tours, a full service spa, fitness centre, outdoor pool and cabana and Kidnappers offers both private dining and a restaurant where food is local and delicious.
No trip to Hawkes Bay would be complete without a visit to several of the area’s 90+ wineries. The Bay is the oldest wine growing region in New Zealand; known for Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and rich Chardonnay. If you are staying at Millar Road you are already at a winery: And Co. Ltd, home to The Supernatural Sauvignon Blanc (however not open to public), and must see wineries in the area include Craggy Range with its spectacular architecture and onsite restaurant; Elephant Hill Estate Winery, another gorgeous property with wines and dining to match; and Te Mata Estate, one of the regions oldest wineries and home to the best Cabernet Sauvignon in the country.
Clearview Estate Winery hosts Friday pizza nights, The Mission Estate Winery holds concerts (Sting has played here) and Black Barn Vineyards has outdoor movies and farmer’s markets. Cycling through the region may be the best way to see the area, its vineyards and sites; many tour operators are available or rent and go on your own.
Hawkes Bay is known as “the food bowl” of New Zealand, and no visit is complete without a stop at the oldest farmer’s market in the country in Hastings. Here you’ll find fresh produce, local seafood, olive oil and wine tastings. There are also amazing food markets open daily, such as Havelock North’s Bellatino’s Food Lovers Market.
New Zealand cafes are known for their great coffee and baked goods, and their ice cream, and in fact all dairy products in this country are to die for. For dining out the wineries are an obvious choice, the top spots including Elephant Hill, Black Barn Vineyards, Terroir at Craggy Range and Mission Estate, and there’s a wide variety of casual to fine dining spots I frequent.
For casual I like to do coffee, breakfast or lunch as well as the not to miss take-home pastries at Hasting’s Opera Kitchen. Napier’s Milk and Honey serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and drinks at Havelock North’s Deliciosa Tapas are always a must. For evenings out other than winery dining, Napier’s Pacifica specializes in fish and game and offers eight-course tasting menus, and MED Wine Bar serves up Mediterranean cuisine overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
Hawkes Bay’s outdoor activities include cycling trails and hiking along over 35 nature trails and at Lake Waikaremoana in Te Urewera National Park, one of the ten great walks of New Zealand. The area has hundreds of beaches for swimming, fishing and surfing – Mahia Beach in the north, south to Waipatiki and Tangoio, and in Napier Westshore and Waimarama offers swimming, surfing and boogie boarding. In central Hawke’s Bay try Pourere, Blackhead or Kairakua.
The bird colonies at Cape Kidnappers are well worth a trip to see the largest gannet colony in the world and the National Aquarium of New Zealand in Napier is the only place in the country you can actually swim with the sharks. Architectural fans will appreciate Napier City, as it is the Art Deco Capital and has the largest collection of original 1930’s architecture. Golf fanatics will want to spend some time at Cape Kidnappers, ranked one of the top 50 in the world.
Guinness World Record fans may want to check out Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateaturipukakapikimaungahoronukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu, just south of Waipukurau, as it’s the Longest Place Name in the World.
By Cassandra Anderton
